Friday, April 26, 2013

Geoffrey Beene - Grey Flannel (1976)

"whole scent is like the moist lively scents of newly blossomed violets after a rain.."


Grey Flannel is a well known and loved fragrance around world. It was launched in 1976 and still in production. What's behind this success is its modernness thanks to its visionary creator Andre Fromentin. It's not behaving like a cologne created in the 70's, but rather a 90's or so. Grey Flannel is one of those "themed" fragrances and its a violet themed fragrance. 

Grey Flannel's blend consist of:

top notes: galbanum, neroli, petitgrain, bergamot, lemon
middle notes: mimose, iris, violet, sage, rose, geranium, narcissus
base notes: tonka bean, oak moss, almond, vetiver, cedar


It has a loaded and potent blend. When we look at the blend we can see its very heavy on the flowers in middle notes, but its not acting that kind of flowery in reality. Is not heavy on the woods too. The blend is mostly homogeneous with just a little bit syntheticness, its a rounded blend with no overpowering character and spiky notes. Except violet of course. Again, for its age it has a very clean, quite modern and freshly light type fragrance. It's not a harsh, spicy, musky masculine. Well blended and soft. So still perfectly usable today.

About the scent, well it's kinda hard to describe the grey flannel's scent. Because it has a scent both so plain but also real complex. Having violet as main theme, it mostly smells like a very much watered down,  fresh and cool lavender scent. Its actually violet of course but along with the combined scents of other flowers it reminds the lavender a bit. But this violet scent is not as spicy as a real lavender scent and much more fresher.

The flower notes in the middle is adding the scent character femininity just a bit. Grey Flannel is an awarded fragrance and makes you feel it. It feels higher quality than today's regular fashion shelf brands' colognes. Like its name; it has a grey aura, and the whole scent is like the moist lively scents of newly blossomed violets after a rain. 



A tad metallic, both masculine and a bit feminine. Not strong, heavy, spicy, bitter or cloying. Light and easy. Its a strange fragrance when we look at is launch date and to must be tried for once at least, but it's definitely not every body's cup of tea. It's not a fragrance to blind buy. Violet as a main theme is not common for men's fragrances, some love it, some hate it.

photo from badger&blade.com

In summary, Grey Flannel with its sexless build is a very unique scent especially when we think about its launch date. Not a fragrance to blind buy, but if you like its scent character, chances are high it can be your signature scent because of its uniqueness. Needs a bit experienced users to get it right.

I'd suggest Grey Flannel to people 25 and older. It can be used through the year and any time in a day. A good choice as a signature scent.

Olfactory group: Oriental Woody
Scent: above average  6/10
Silage: above average  6/10
Longevity: above average  6/10
Quality feel: average to above average  5,5/10
Recommended: Yes, especially if you like lavender/violet themed slightly feminine unique fragrances

Laura Biagiotti - Roma per Uomo (1994)

"smells like sweet, coconutty flavored cookies.."



I think there are not much people who don't know roma, still. Its a classical piece that almost anybody over 25 may had been used at least once. But, you haven't yet? Don't worry, if you have ever used Minotaure from Paloma Picasso then you used roma too. Because they are quite similar scentwise. Roma was launched in 1994.

Roma's blend consist of:

top notes: galbanum, basil, grapefruit, bergamot
middle notes: pine, juniper, jasmine, heliotrope
base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, cedar


The blend is very harmonious, homogeneous, soft, and natural. There is not syntheticness. But what makes roma a bit special is, despite being a sweet and oriental type fragrance, it's so lightly prepared that you can easily use it even summer. A perfect beach fragrance for example. And nice with it's warmness in winter. You can't find much orientals this versatile. 

Despite being a oriental woody, it's definitely not a heavy or cloying fragrance. The opening is kinda like a vanillary sweet coconutty scent in company with soft citruses. This sweetness is not excessive just in a perfect rate. 

Actually smells like sweet, coconutty flavored cookies. What gives that coconutty sweet soft scent is the combination of galbanum and benzoin. But don't think about notes, roma is all about vanilla and coconut. but in a very soft gentle way. It's soft, sweet, stable and calm. Not an offensive scent but will show and reflect itself without a problem. 



In summary; a successful modern oriental, with balanced masculinity and sweetness. The only problem because of its mostly a static scent, doesn't change much from the opening to drydown at all. This may become boring soon for it's user in a medium term. 

I would suggest this fragrance to people at the age of 20 and over, and a s a periodic fragrance for a change. Too static to be a signature scent imo. But very versatile you can use it any season, any time a day. Except maybe very hot days. It'd be wiser to choose fresher type colognes then. 



Olfactory group: Oriental Woody
Scent: good  7/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: above average  6/10
Quality feel: above average  6/10
Recommended: Yes, as a periodic fragrance if you like soft, and lightly sweet scents

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Lacoste - Cool Play (2006)

"Satisfactory for the users with no high expectations.."


As you know, Lacoste is not a strong player on the fragrance market. While some of the brands well made fragrances like, original (84), 2000 and booster have been loved and had good success, actual cheapo models which are mostly made with artificial synthetic notes created in labs in consequence of cost concerns are not much different than what boss, givenchy, armani do today. Ok, let's not kill the Cool Play from the start, it's not that awful eventually. Cool play was launched in 2006. Its a modern, fresh summer type fragrance.

Cool Play's blend consist of:

top notes: coriander, birch leaf, mandarin orange, bergamot
middle notes: juniper berries, violet, pepper, cedar
base notes: sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, vetiver



To speak about blend I first must say it's not high quality or natural. Of course this is not a surprise as this is a regular fragrance from a fashion brand. Some notes are artificial and this can be sensed easily, but not too synthetic or cloying.  Still makes you feel if it had some nice natural notes, it could be a very successful fragrance, as its blend has a good harmony with wise proportioning. We all know its inevitable to get miracles with the notes like vetiver, patchouli, cedar, pepper when they are used as high quality ingredients. But this is not the case for the cool play.


The cool play's scent is a scent that I would define as a "street fragrance". Satisfactory for the users with no high expectations from their cologne and that's all. Opens as a slightly sweet, soft melony fresh scent. After some time gets a little bit sweeter and loses some of that freshness and becomes woody thanks to its base notes. It would satisfy young or very inexperienced fragrance users. But for the regular and experienced users, I think it'd be quite generic and boring with no special character or scent. So take this as a fragrance for entering fragrance world. May be a good present for young users. And it's better than style in play.

In summary; as I wrote before; its a regular fashion fragrance from a fashion brand. If you don't have high expectations and only used a few colognes so far, they you may give this a try as it would suit these summer days nicely.


As a soft, fresh fragrance it's best to use it in spring and summer. With its light and modern scent, it wouldn't disturb you. I would suggest this to users between 16-22. For anybody older than this group, cool play may appear too common and simple.

Olfactory group: woody floral musk
Scent: above average to good  6,5/10
Silage: average  5/10
Longevity: average  5/10
Quality feel: under average to average  4,5/10
Recommended: Only if you are a fragrance newbie

Jaguar - Jaguar for Men (1988)

"You want some strong spicy aromatic? Here you are.."


The fragrance I'm reviewing is the first fragrance Jaguar had produced. It was launched in 1988. So you may guess it would have some classical characteristics of those times. Just like it's bottle, it has a green aromatic character. Jaguar Original has been discontinued but, still can be found online.

Jaguar for men's blend consists:

top notes: orange, lavender, green notes, mandarin orange, cassia, basil, grapefruit, anise, bergamot, thyme
middle notes: jasmine, nutmeg, carnation, gardenia, cyclamen, cinnamon, caraway, sage, rose, geranium, fir
base notes: leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, oak moss, vanilla, cedar, tobacco, fern


As you can see, it has a full, rich blend. Most of the typical aromatic and fougere notes had been used. Then does this reflect to the actual scent too? Well yea, it has a quite complicated scent. First of all, let me say that the middle notes, or I should say the spices in the blend dominates the general scent. A very offensive and rough blend. Neither citruses, flowers,  musk or moss are able to suppress the super dense scents of the sharp aromatics and spices. Now listen to me, this fragrance is intensely spicy and bitter aromatic. It's green yes, but nothing like a polo or paco rabanne. Its dark, harsh, cloying, bitter, cruel and just waiting to torment your nose if by any chance you overspray. And with it's potentness its very easy to overspray it. This is no joke, still after using hundreds of fragrances this is one of the most strong and harsh fragrances I've ever seen. If you apply just a bit too much, you may need to wash your neck. You want some strong spicy aromatic? Here you are.


Anise, sharp dark green notes, overpowering sage(which I hate) and geranium combines and bring out a really sharp, strong and aggressive scent. Maybe because of this strong main theme I didn't detect softer notes much like gardenia, jasmine, moss, vanilla, cedar, tobacco, sandalwood. Its all about spices and very dark, bitter green aromatics. 


In summary, this is a pure but brutal masculine aromatic. Starting sharp, herbal and spicy, then getting soapy woody. Not a bad fragrance, but its like an untamed tyrannosaurus rex for a pet.

This fragrance would be better in winter. Should be used sparingly and carefully. I would suggest this to people 40 and over. Anybody under that age should definitely try before buying as its kinda outdated, very masculine and very potent.

Olfactory group: aromatic
Scent: under average  4/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: awesome  9/10
Quality feel: above average to good  6,5/10
Recommended: Only if you like super strong masculine fragrances

Hugo Boss - Boss Elements (1993)

"a satisfactory, dark, spicy citrussy fougere.."



Well, most of my Turkish readers know how I feel about most Boss fragrances. I'm not biased on any fragrance brands or something, but if I find more and more low quality fragrances just made for avarice, that makes me mad. So what's my problem with Hugo Boss? Well I'm angry with them because of their low quality modern perfumes. Like other experienced fragrance lovers, I find most modern boss fragrances are quite cheap feeling and synthetic. This happens when you know the brand's good vintage fragrances like spirit, number one, sport, etc. Because of the brand's fame; lots of people gets their new fragrances, and its generally too late, when they discover much better quality fragrances, as the money had already been spent.

Fortunately, the Boss Elements is in better quality than most newer creations from the brand. Its not a high quality one, but not a cheapo either. Boss Elements was launched in 1993 according to basenotes.com

Boss Elements's blend consists:

top notes: aldehydes, artemisia, lavander, basil, bergamot, lemon
middle notes: coriander, violet, clary sage, caraway, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
base notes: leather, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss, cedar


Boss Elements has a well balanced and calm blend. The pointy character of the spices and the acidic scent of the citruses combines and bring out a pleasant and saticfactory scent. In some ways it shares similarities with Calvin Klein Eternity, not scentwise but structurewise. The scent is dark, spicy, lightly bitter orange scent, riched with dry woods. It actually acts quite like a 90's perfume; slightly spicy, semi modern, still a bit manly and average quality. Smells deep, dark and serious.

To me Boss Elements is such a night fragrance. Makes you feel like that. But rather than a fragrance to have a dinner in a good restaurants, its more like a supplements for places like clubs, discos and and bars. This doesn't mean you can't use it on daytime, being a calm and subtle fragrance it would suit most situations well. But would shine at late night attractions better.

In summary; a satisfactory, dark spicy citrussy fougere. Satisfactotyi that's all, not more. You shouldn't hope for a high quality, very well crafted fragrance. If you do, you may be dissappointed. But for a periodic fragrance, to try something new it would work. Not for fragrance gourmes.

Except very hot summer days, it can be used any season, any time in a day. But I would rather suggest using in in colder days like autumn and winter. Because of its spice content has some warmness. I would suggest this to people between 16-30.
 
Olfactory group: aromatic fougere
Scent: above average  6/10
Silage: above average  6/10
Longevity: under average  4,5/10
Quality feel: average  5/10
Recommended: Give it a try for a change

Aramis - Tuscany (1984)

"I don't know any men won't like Tuscany's scent.."


My first review will be on Tuscany from Aramis, which has an important place in the world of fragrance world. Tuscany was launced in 1984 and one of Aramis's big guns. Its a typical 80's masculine type fragrance. In style its quite similar to fragrances like Polo Crest, Dior Eau Sauvage, Lancome Trophee. So its one of those fougeres smelling leather, fern, moss, woody notes with the opening of fresh citruses.


Tuscany's blend consists:

top notes: lime, lavander, bergamot, lemon
middle notes: caraway, orange blossom, tarragon, anise
base notes: leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, cinnamon, basil, oakmoss


 
When we look at the blend we can see its using a very standart and proven 80's formulation. First opening with sharp citruses, then some spices and finally soft but strong basenotes balancing the whole blend with their heavy scents.

The notes are natural well enough, the blend smells natural with no syntheticness and no disturbing prominent notes. Meanwhile; the one I'm reviewing is the older one, I'm not sure if there is a difference between the older ones and the newer ones with new bottles.






Modern renovated version

It's so succesful, I don't know any men won't like Tuscany's scent. Despite being an 80's style oldschool fragrance it's not heavy, harsh or cloying. Its fresh for its type and smeels natural. The blend is well crafted and quite harmonic. So harmonic that the whole fragrance smells like as it consists only but one singular note. This sometimes can make the user think as it was a monotonous or boring scent, but not too seriously. Except that, it's scent, naturalness, quality feel are very good.


In summary; for me Tuscany is one the well crafted fresher fougeres, it has 80's soul, with perfect usability for our times, smells good, not aggressive or offensive. Just a wonderful classical light masculine.

Except hot summer days, it can be used any season, any time in a day. I would suggest it for people 25 or older. Its not heavy, but anybody younger 25 with modern tastes may find its a little bit  outdated. If you like manly, masculine classical 80's fragrances I strongly suggest it.


Olfactory group: aromatic fougere
Scent: awesome  9/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: average  5/10
Quality feel: good  7/10
Recommended: Strongly