Saturday, November 23, 2013

Dolce & Gabbana - D&G Masculine (1999)

"This is a soft, gentle scent, which always gave me an impression of a gay scent for somehow.." 
 
 

D&G Masculine is a soft type woody aromatic scent launched in 1999. It was created by nose Max Gavarry. Not an uber successful nose when we look his creations. This is a soft, gentle scent, which always gave me an impression of a gay scent for somehow. Also mind you, it's now discontinued. It wasn't a very popular, successful fragrance at all.
 
D&G Masculines blend consist of:

top notes: petit grain, bergamot
middle notes: orange blossom, clary sage, mint, basil, jasmine, caraway
base notes: teak wood, fig leaf, musk, vetiver, cedar

Not a too common blend we see here. There's only petitgrain and bergamot on top notes, and then some fig and teak to soften and cream the base notes. The only problem with this is; all the blend smells quite artificial and anharmonic. But to me its the paradox it has, scent is quite feminine, despite bearing a "masculine" tag. And I'm not talking about a slight feminine scent, it's a so feminine scent, a woman could easily wear it. With this and the syntheticness together I found the blends a loser.


Let's look at the scent then. D&G Masculine has a general scent character as a flowery, sweet lemony scent. But either the lemons sweetness and the jasmine's dominancy make the scent overly feminine to a man's acceptance levels. To me, this  sweet, flowery concept would be too heavy event for winter. Some people accept this as the best citrus scent but for me its so far away from that, when I think there are tons of other much better citrussy scents than this. This was a so so fragrance, but as in most discontinued fragrances, users of discontinued fragrances transform them to masterpieces in their minds when its gone, same case here. So don't be hasty or over excited to get one after reading other reviews. 

In summary, it's kinda a harsh, moderately heavy scent with bad synthetic blend. Definitely not the masculine old school men's scent you'd have imagined despite the masculine badge. Rather; a soft, a bit too musky, flowery gayish scent. Modern was it? Yes. Successful? no.

Longevity is under average and the silage is average on my skin. Tends to fade fast. I'd suggest this to users between 25-45 with no red lines. If you like the scent, it can suit casual or formal situations, indoors and outdoors.  I suggest using in second half of the day. Mostly in fall or winter.

Olfactory group: Woody Aromatic
Scent: under average 4/10
Silage: average  5/10
Longevity: under average  4/10
Quality feel: under average  4/10
Recommended: No, I would not suggest this to anybody, there are better options.

Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Davidoff - Good Life (1998)

" there are much better Davidoff's out there.."



Ok people, here we are with another review. Good Life, Davidoff''s woody floral musk fragrance launched in 1998. This isn't a well known or popular fragrance but also discontinued. Davidoff is generally known better with its much more popular fragrances like Cool Water and Zino which I'll also write reviews of them in future.

Good Life's blend consist of:

top notes: bergamot, grapefruit, black currant, melon, lavander, fig leaf
middle notes: pelargonium, violet, magnolia, amalfi lemon
basenotes: sandalwood, tea, clover, amber, almond

This is kinda a different, original combination of notes with some rare notes of almond, tea, pelargonium. And we can see other notes are mostly light and fresh ones. So, on paper, good life's blend looks quite promising isn't it? but how does it do on real life? Let's see.


Frankly speaking, I'd gotten this frag with high hopes, for a start; this was a Davidoff product. Also top notes looked very delicious. But it deluded me. First of all blend is not in good quality, some notes feels artificial. As you first spray it, a nice fresh lemon scent comes up, but then soon, another scent; which I cannot describe totally -kinda something like a repulsive wheaty scent - begins to spread. I can't make out which of the notes or combination of notes deploys this scent but, I can easily say it doesn't get good with your skin. Sadly, most of the middle and the final phases of the scent smells this combination. This is a very strange combination that you can only find it maybe one in a hundred fragrance. Almost guaranteed to give you a wry face anytime you smell it. In summary, a bad smelling scent. As I look for other reviews of the fragrance, I found most of the review are not bad, maybe it didn't get along with my skin well. I personally wouldn't want to use this fragrance because of that strange scent dominates the fragrance of the the opening, maybe because of the fig leaf or another note. Even, if the problem is my skin, I still do not think that it's scent is successful or authentic enough to seek for. 


Longevity and the silage are average. I'd suggest this to users 25 and over. If you like the scent, it can suit casual or formal situations, indoors and outdoors. This is not your regular wood floral musk. Not that light and floral. It's semi fresh semi masculine/formal. I suggest using in second half of the day, outdoors mostly. Just know that; there are much better Davidoff's out there.

Olfactory group: Woody Floral Musk
Scent: bad  3/10
Silage: average  5/10
Longevity: average  5/10
Quality feel: under average  4/10
Recommended: No, I would not suggest this to anybody, there are better options.

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Giorgio Armani - Acqua di Gio (1996)

"The ones produced in the last 5-6 years are surely worse in quality, feeling a bit synthetic and unsatisfactory products.."
 


Surely there isn't much people who don't know Gio yet. But I wanted to write a review of it nevertheless. It's a well known aromatic fresh type aquatic fragrance, was created in 1996 by succesful nose Alberto Morillas. Acqua di Gio is one of the most popular and loved fragrances of modern fragrance history. A great success, no doubt, but it's quite outmoded nowadays.
Acqua di Gios blend consist of:

top notes:orange, lime, mandarin orange, jasmine, bergamot, lemon, neroli
middle notes: cyclamen, nutmeg, mignonette, coriander, violet, freesia, sea notes, peach, hyacinth, rose, jasmine, rosemary, calone
basenotes: amber, patchouli, oakmoss, cedar, white musk

As it is seen, this is a nice, fresh and cheerful blend. Smells like that too. To shortly describe Gio is a very light and fresh fragrance. Kinda like a fahrenheit watered down many times. In a clearer phrase it's scent can be roughly described as a very well watered down melony scent. This is mostly because of calone aldehyde. You don't gent much of the notes, not much detail, everything is blended down very stronly and smells as one scent. As it smells nice, I don't think its a special or so. A lighly/melony sweet aquatic/sea watery scent with the touch of soft lemony and jasminey notes. Quite satisfactory as summer scent, but not to be exaggerated. But this is the problem, gio is a very hyped fragrance still in most countries, but in reality it's not that special. Thereby, realize that; if you haven't tried it yet, it's a nice, light and very clean fragrance can satisfy most unexperienced fragrance users, that's all. Blend was much better in it's early years, modern copies are quite mediocre.



Now, my comment may look harsh, but this is how it is. Especially the modern versions of it, thanks to IFRA. Today, most of good natural essences can't be used as before, modern bottles of the older fragrances, which were launched in 80s or 90's are becoming worse and worse. Like musk, like oakmoss, you can't find the real essences of these anymore of todays fragrances. They try to imitate those notes and fail. In Gio's way you can't find the richness, quality, and deepness of the blend of the first bottles in 90's. Now when you buy a new fresh bottle of it, if you had known adg well before, then you will see the differences, mediocrity. It now just smell as a soft, melony, sweet aquatic. Bland. You can't sense all those aromatic notes in the middle, as you could do in 90's. There is not much is going at the opening despite all the citrus notes given. Still I cannot say it's a bad fragrance, but it became quite regular for me.  

Silage is quite good but for a very short time. It's biggest disadventage is the worse quality of the modern versions in my opinion. The ones produced in the last 5-6 years are surely worse in quality, feeling a bit synthetic and unsatisfactory products. So in summary, because of the lower quality of the modern versions, regular bland scent and being a bit cliche right now, its not a fragrance to be chosen anymore. Bad? No, but not as nice as like it was 10 years ago. The current one is just a shadow of what it used to be. And it's sad, because Gio was one of the best aquatic scents known and accepted worldwide in it's period.  If Armani had discontinued it before ruining it, it could stand as a respected cult fragrance. Not now. Still usable for inexperienced young users though.




Olfactory group: Aromatic aquatic
Scent: above average  6/10
Silage: very good  8/10
Longevity: average  5/10
Quality feel: average (modern versions)  5/10
Recommended:Yes, if you love soft aquatic fragrances and haven't tried it yet, no, if you are looking for some special product from Giorgio Armani.

Monday, August 26, 2013

Sonia Rykiel - Rykiel Homme (1999)

"despite classified as an aromatic, it has rather a fruity citrussy scent. Or maybe a fruity aromatic shall I say.."
 

Rykiel is a bit less known successful brand in the community. The Rykiel Homme fragrance I'm reviewing was launched in 1999. It's a fresh aromatic.

Rykiel Hommes blend consist of:

top notes: mandarin, yuzu, grapefruit, mint
middle notes: nutmeg, fig leaf, jasmine, violet leaf
base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver, styrax (benzoin)

Rykiel homme is a light and fresh fragrance that can be easily liked and used by anybody. Despite being classified as an aromatic, it has rather a fruity citrussy scent. Or maybe a fruity aromatic shall I say. Opens with soft citrusses and a very soft and light mint, following them nutmeg and jasmine softens the scent even more. Base notes were not distinctive on me. But with all this mix, to me, the scent has a main theme of very little violet, a bit melon and peach. At least that's how it was smelling on my skin. The blend is quite nice, homogeneous, easy going and not annoying. This is one of those fragrances that leaves a scent track behind you when you walk away. There is not much, -if any- greenness in it, and as it's quite light and velvety, so it can be easily used 4 seasons.


Silage is good but, the longevity is a tad under average. I'd suggest this to users between 16-30. With its fruity, soft and velvety scent, it can be used anytime a year and day. Can suit casual or formal situations, indoors and outdoors. Just know that, it's a gentle, soft fragrance. If you are looking for a screamer this is not the fragrance you're looking for. I can't say it's a fully mainstream or monotone fragrance but it's not a signature fragrance either.

Olfactory group: Aromatic
Scent: good  7/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: under average  4/10
Quality feel: average  5/10
Recommended: Not specially recommended, but if you like soft and light fruity aromatic fragrances, then you may give this a try.

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Giorgio Armani - Emporio Armani He (1998)

"I can say it's a variant of 212, except with the bitter orange notes with a duller in character.." 
 
He; also known as Lui, is one of the better fragrances Giorgio Armani had produced lately. It was launched in 1998 and a citrus aromatic type scent. Although being heavier on the woods.
Emporio Armani He's blend consist of:

top notes: pineapple, mandarin orange, apple, sage, yuzu, bergamot, cardamom, lemon
middle notes: cyclamen, nutmeg, orris root, jasmine, rose
base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, oak moss, cedar

I said it's one of the better fragrances armani launched lately because, either giorgio or emporio had been launching very mediocre, even low quality synthetic fragrances, produced with economical concerns. He or Lui in this respect, a better fragrance, though not being as high quality as say an armani eau pour homme, but still close to that familiar quality of older Armani fragrances. Syntheticness is limited, not too generic. Has some problems with strong notes like sage. Those sometimes can be too dominant over the whole scent. So it's kinda a pointy blend rather that a homogeneous, smooth one. Thus blend is barely satisfactory.


How's the scent? Despite it's being a lighter fragrance, you don't get fresh and acidic scents like lemon, apple much. Rather that bitter scents of sage, nutmeg, cyclamen and orris dominates the opening at first. But no need to worry all the mix of these kinda smells like a nice black pepper tree. After some time passes, nice woody notes arise from the bottom, mellowing the scent thus making it a bit more likable. But because of the potent sage note, notes like tonka beans and flowers are being outdone. Personally I don't like strong sage note in my fragrances, as it's generally very potent and can easily dominate the whole scent. So this fragrance kinda has two characters, one wants to smells like a clean, smooth woody scent with a bit fresh citrus opening, the other with potent aromatics with the leadership of sage. I'd really like that lemon and yuzu notes to be stronger at the opening. They smell quite fresh and bright, but diminish very quickly.



In summary, scentwise I can say it's a variant of 212, except with the bitter orange notes with a duller in character. Sometimes, in cooler hours that nice lemon and yuzu notes appear clearer, then fragrance turns something more likable. But this is rare, as sage always wants to be the dominant note. I really wish this fragrance would be produced more dampy, with stronger citrus, pepper and moss notes. Then it could be a really successful one. Still, not too bad as it is, but just a mediocre, modern woody scent.

Silage and longevity are both good. I'd suggest this to users between 18-22. With its peppery, slightly darker woody but not heavy character it can be used anytime in the year. Both indoors or outdoors. I suggest using in second half of the day, especially night time. Maybe in clubs or so.

Olfactory group: Citrus Aromatic
Scent: good  7/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: good  7/10
Quality feel: average  5/10
Recommended: Not so much, as there are much better balanced fragrances out there in the same style. But if you can keep your expectations low, you can give it a try.

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Joseph Abboud - Joseph Abboud (1993)

"a hidden treasure.."


I really think this fragrance deserves a good review, because it earns this with both its quality and good scent.  Due to not much advertisement efforts from the brand this is not a well known fragrance, was launched in 1993, first and the only fragrance of Joseph Abboud and luckily still in production. It's a spicy woody type fragrance.

Joseph Abboud's blend consist of:

top notes: lemon, orange, basil, bergamot
middle notes: ginger, jasmine, chamomile, black pepper, thyme, violet
base notes: ambergris, cardamom, musk, sandalwood, vetiver, cedarwood
The blend is very nice, in a familiar structure. Quite strong, rich, punchy, spicy but still very well blended and not overwhelming. Despite having lots of strong and pungent notes, everything is in a nice spicy balance. Yes, it's obviously a well spiced blend but not too much. A bit dark, warm and a bit formal. And a real masculine. There is no syntheticness to speak of.

Ok, the blend is very well. How about the scent? Opens with rich citruses along with spices. After some time, all the spices get lighten a bit and settle and accompany the woody notes. It's so nice, neither spices are too strong nor there is a problem with woody notes. Everything is well balanced. If you wonder how does it smell; well, after opening very much like a good whisky scent, a dry, well bodied but not cloying woody fragrance with spices. That sweetish whisky scent never leaves you. Thus giving a nice warmness, this is a very nice winter fragrance, heating you. 
It's very surprising and kinda sad to see how famous some fragrances like polo sport, paco rabanne xs became, launching in the same year as joseph abboud, but not itself. I connect this to it's appeal to middle age bunch, rather than the youngsters' perfumes mentioned above. But don't get me wrong, this is not a dated or old fashioned fragrance, suits very well to our days, a nice modern, potent, spicy, masculine fragrance, aimed to serious gentlemans. In this respect, it's really a hidden treasure.
In summary; a real gem for people seeking a nice modern spicy masculine. Much better than most of the other spicy fragrances out there, still not known much. Could be a nice signature scent in my opinion.

Silage is good, longevity is very good. Stays with your skin all day and reminds itself. Scent gets addictive and make you miss it. It seems to be aimed to people at 30 or over. But, I think 25 and over could use it too. Could be used any hours in the day, outdoors or indoors. Being not too formal can be used anywhere. But by being a warm spicy scent, its best to use in cold fall days or in winter.

Olfactory group: Spicy Woody
Scent: very good  8/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: very good  8/10
Quality feel: good  7/10
Recommended: Definitely, before being discontinued every fragrance lovers should try it once.

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Calvin Klein - Escape for Men (1993)

"a fresh fruity fragrance with some greenness.."




Here we have CK's fragrance a little bit left behind from the more popular and known models. But it's still a good fragrance. Has many good points that I'll be explaining in the review. Escape classified as a green aromatic but acts as a fresh fruity type cologne. It was launched in 1993 two years later from its women's version, and the nose behind it is Steve Demarcado, not a potent creator so far, most creating regular fashion and celebrity fragrances. Actually Escape is his one of the best creations. 

Escape for Men's blend consist of: 

top notes: eucalyptus, melon, juniper, grapefruit, mango, bergamot
middle notes: rosemary, cypress, fir, sage, birch, sea notes
base notes: sandalwood, amber, patchouli, oak moss, vetiver


Just look at this list. How nice looking those notes are. Lot's  of nice fruits on the top, bold green aromatics, and very classical fougerish base note arrangements. Except sage note, I mostly hate it, I know, but I can not help about it. Unlike lot's of negative basenotes comments I still think escape is one of the better quality CK fragrances, and worked faithfully on it to create a good fragrance. I can feel it after using hundreds of fragrances. Of course I'm not saying its Creed or even Gucci quality or something like that, but its clearly better, more natural, well blended than most newer CK scents. The blend is very smooth, fresher side, fruity, soft, light, unisex and well behaved. kinda like a nice companion, comes with you wherever you go.


Yes, I know when you look at the blend , especially the middle notes it's suits perfectly as a green aromatic. But in realty the scent character is very different. This is a typical fresh fruity scent. You can forget about the notes I've written above. Escape is mostly a melon & mango combination. Yea some notes like sea notes makes it nearly feel like a aquatic fruity, but it's % 90 melon and mango. And this is good. Not boring, very gentle and adaptable. You will get the aromatic notes least. There are not much well made fruity fragrance out on the market, but to me Escape is one of the best. Not a plain dull fruit combination but cleverly riched with eucalyptus and sea notes, and just a tad spiced with aromatic woodiness. So in summary its a fresh fruity fragrance with some greenness. I think more people need to know about escape. Its being crushed under fragrances like eternity and ck one series. I can easily say most of those are under escape quality feel-wise.


In summary it's one of those fragrances you can spray and go. Summer, winter, in, out, day, night, doesn't care. Perfectly versatile. You like fruity scents? You need to try this. A well made satisfactory scent.


I would suggest escape to younger people than 30. After that it can feel a bit too simple and light for the experienced and aged user. Like pouring a freshly made, unripe wine to a well aged smoky oak barrel. you get what I mean? It can be ant time in a year and day, but would suit spring and summer best, as it doesn't smell so special I would suggest as an outdoor fragrance rather than an indoor one.


Olfactory group: Aromatic
Scent: good  7/10
Silage: average to above average  5,5/10
Longevity: average 5/10
Quality feel: above average  6/10
Recommended: Yes,I would suggest this to anyone, but mostly to lovers of fruity fragrance lovers

Paco Rabanne - XS Pour Homme (1993)

"c'mon who hasn't tried XS yet?.."


Paco Rabanne is a fashion house founded in 1966. It was founded by a Spanish architect named Francisco "Paco" Rabaneda Cuervo, who had fled to French in the Spanish Civil War time with his family. Today the brand is known as Paco Rabanne. The first paco rabanne fragrance was launched in 1969 and now it has 47 fragrances. So it's a Spanish brand in its blood. The XS model was launched in 1993 and created by the two noses Rosendo Mateu and Gerard Anthony. Both are successful noses but Gerard Anthony takes the edge with his legendary Azzaro Ph creation. Anyway let's get to the fragrance.

XS pour homme's blend consist of:

top notes: rosemary, mandarin orange, tarragon, mint, bergamot, lemon
middle notes: coriander, juniper, sage, bourbon geranium, brazilian rosewood
base notes: amber, patchouli, sandalwood, musk, vanilla


Its a good blend. And when we look at it, we can see most of the potent notes giving sweetness are in the base notes. So it can be understood with the drydown xs want to be get on the sweetish side. And that's mostly true. But before how it smells to judge the blend I can say its quite natural with no generic smelling. It's not a real high quality fragrance but it's above most of today's fragrances. That's very similar with fragrances launched in 90's. Worse that 80's fragrances, better than 2000's fragrances. The blend is smooth but also dynamical which I like. 

It starts fresher side, get a bit more mature with the middle notes and then sweetens with base notes. That change from freshness to sweetness is quite smooth but noticeable. Good as its not so dramatical. Its not a rough blend, and lets you smells some of the notes it has very cleanly and separately.

 
The scent; hımm, at the first few minutes it really opens like Cool Water from Davidoff. Fresh and clean. Not too citrussy, but a bit more fresh spicy, aromaticier than regular cool water. After opening with notes like coriander and rosewood it gets a bit more mature and sensual/warm. Then after some more time with the help of base notes it gets more sweet. Kinda like a smooth woody scent with honeyish sweetness. Its nice, notably strong, potent and likable. Sweetness is just in the middle, not too sweet. Its warm. And not cloying if you use with right dosage. The main problem with XS I found is that it 's quite particular abut the skins it's sprayed on. Loves choosing skin, and body chemistry. On some peoples it will smell more citrussy, herbal and fresher with its top and middle notes, on other peoples it may behave more like a light oriental with sweetness from the base notes. If you are lucky, with your body chemistry you will experience both of these and get the full potential from the cologne. So I would suggest trying it before buying, even though it's quite a likable fragrance by most fragrance lovers.



In summary, XS is nothing special; a regular fashion fragrance from a regular fragrance house BUT, its doing it's job quite well, very well actually. It doesn't feel cheap, synthetic or cloying. The scent is nice and likable,perfectly modern,  has good longevity and sillage and reasonably priced. Sound pretty nice for a fashion fragrance to me. And c'mon who hasn't tried XS yet? Is there anyone? 


Since it's a easygoing fragrance, its ideal user range is quite wide. But I think it would suit best with people between 18 - 35. Since its get a bit sweet and warm side, this is not as a cool fragrance as some other, so not for hot days. Perfect for autumn and winter. Can be a good office fragrance, dinner fragrance, meeting fragrance, or for everyday regular use. But doesn't have a strong character to be a signature fragrance. 



Olfactory group: Woody Floral Musk
Scent: good  7/10
Silage: good to very good  7,5/10
Longevity: good  7/10
Quality feel: average  5/10
Recommended: Yes, except highly selective fragrance gourmet's, I would recommend trying it to most fragrance lovers

Friday, April 26, 2013

Geoffrey Beene - Grey Flannel (1976)

"whole scent is like the moist lively scents of newly blossomed violets after a rain.."


Grey Flannel is a well known and loved fragrance around world. It was launched in 1976 and still in production. What's behind this success is its modernness thanks to its visionary creator Andre Fromentin. It's not behaving like a cologne created in the 70's, but rather a 90's or so. Grey Flannel is one of those "themed" fragrances and its a violet themed fragrance. 

Grey Flannel's blend consist of:

top notes: galbanum, neroli, petitgrain, bergamot, lemon
middle notes: mimose, iris, violet, sage, rose, geranium, narcissus
base notes: tonka bean, oak moss, almond, vetiver, cedar


It has a loaded and potent blend. When we look at the blend we can see its very heavy on the flowers in middle notes, but its not acting that kind of flowery in reality. Is not heavy on the woods too. The blend is mostly homogeneous with just a little bit syntheticness, its a rounded blend with no overpowering character and spiky notes. Except violet of course. Again, for its age it has a very clean, quite modern and freshly light type fragrance. It's not a harsh, spicy, musky masculine. Well blended and soft. So still perfectly usable today.

About the scent, well it's kinda hard to describe the grey flannel's scent. Because it has a scent both so plain but also real complex. Having violet as main theme, it mostly smells like a very much watered down,  fresh and cool lavender scent. Its actually violet of course but along with the combined scents of other flowers it reminds the lavender a bit. But this violet scent is not as spicy as a real lavender scent and much more fresher.

The flower notes in the middle is adding the scent character femininity just a bit. Grey Flannel is an awarded fragrance and makes you feel it. It feels higher quality than today's regular fashion shelf brands' colognes. Like its name; it has a grey aura, and the whole scent is like the moist lively scents of newly blossomed violets after a rain. 



A tad metallic, both masculine and a bit feminine. Not strong, heavy, spicy, bitter or cloying. Light and easy. Its a strange fragrance when we look at is launch date and to must be tried for once at least, but it's definitely not every body's cup of tea. It's not a fragrance to blind buy. Violet as a main theme is not common for men's fragrances, some love it, some hate it.

photo from badger&blade.com

In summary, Grey Flannel with its sexless build is a very unique scent especially when we think about its launch date. Not a fragrance to blind buy, but if you like its scent character, chances are high it can be your signature scent because of its uniqueness. Needs a bit experienced users to get it right.

I'd suggest Grey Flannel to people 25 and older. It can be used through the year and any time in a day. A good choice as a signature scent.

Olfactory group: Oriental Woody
Scent: above average  6/10
Silage: above average  6/10
Longevity: above average  6/10
Quality feel: average to above average  5,5/10
Recommended: Yes, especially if you like lavender/violet themed slightly feminine unique fragrances

Laura Biagiotti - Roma per Uomo (1994)

"smells like sweet, coconutty flavored cookies.."



I think there are not much people who don't know roma, still. Its a classical piece that almost anybody over 25 may had been used at least once. But, you haven't yet? Don't worry, if you have ever used Minotaure from Paloma Picasso then you used roma too. Because they are quite similar scentwise. Roma was launched in 1994.

Roma's blend consist of:

top notes: galbanum, basil, grapefruit, bergamot
middle notes: pine, juniper, jasmine, heliotrope
base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, cedar


The blend is very harmonious, homogeneous, soft, and natural. There is not syntheticness. But what makes roma a bit special is, despite being a sweet and oriental type fragrance, it's so lightly prepared that you can easily use it even summer. A perfect beach fragrance for example. And nice with it's warmness in winter. You can't find much orientals this versatile. 

Despite being a oriental woody, it's definitely not a heavy or cloying fragrance. The opening is kinda like a vanillary sweet coconutty scent in company with soft citruses. This sweetness is not excessive just in a perfect rate. 

Actually smells like sweet, coconutty flavored cookies. What gives that coconutty sweet soft scent is the combination of galbanum and benzoin. But don't think about notes, roma is all about vanilla and coconut. but in a very soft gentle way. It's soft, sweet, stable and calm. Not an offensive scent but will show and reflect itself without a problem. 



In summary; a successful modern oriental, with balanced masculinity and sweetness. The only problem because of its mostly a static scent, doesn't change much from the opening to drydown at all. This may become boring soon for it's user in a medium term. 

I would suggest this fragrance to people at the age of 20 and over, and a s a periodic fragrance for a change. Too static to be a signature scent imo. But very versatile you can use it any season, any time a day. Except maybe very hot days. It'd be wiser to choose fresher type colognes then. 



Olfactory group: Oriental Woody
Scent: good  7/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: above average  6/10
Quality feel: above average  6/10
Recommended: Yes, as a periodic fragrance if you like soft, and lightly sweet scents

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Lacoste - Cool Play (2006)

"Satisfactory for the users with no high expectations.."


As you know, Lacoste is not a strong player on the fragrance market. While some of the brands well made fragrances like, original (84), 2000 and booster have been loved and had good success, actual cheapo models which are mostly made with artificial synthetic notes created in labs in consequence of cost concerns are not much different than what boss, givenchy, armani do today. Ok, let's not kill the Cool Play from the start, it's not that awful eventually. Cool play was launched in 2006. Its a modern, fresh summer type fragrance.

Cool Play's blend consist of:

top notes: coriander, birch leaf, mandarin orange, bergamot
middle notes: juniper berries, violet, pepper, cedar
base notes: sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, vetiver



To speak about blend I first must say it's not high quality or natural. Of course this is not a surprise as this is a regular fragrance from a fashion brand. Some notes are artificial and this can be sensed easily, but not too synthetic or cloying.  Still makes you feel if it had some nice natural notes, it could be a very successful fragrance, as its blend has a good harmony with wise proportioning. We all know its inevitable to get miracles with the notes like vetiver, patchouli, cedar, pepper when they are used as high quality ingredients. But this is not the case for the cool play.


The cool play's scent is a scent that I would define as a "street fragrance". Satisfactory for the users with no high expectations from their cologne and that's all. Opens as a slightly sweet, soft melony fresh scent. After some time gets a little bit sweeter and loses some of that freshness and becomes woody thanks to its base notes. It would satisfy young or very inexperienced fragrance users. But for the regular and experienced users, I think it'd be quite generic and boring with no special character or scent. So take this as a fragrance for entering fragrance world. May be a good present for young users. And it's better than style in play.

In summary; as I wrote before; its a regular fashion fragrance from a fashion brand. If you don't have high expectations and only used a few colognes so far, they you may give this a try as it would suit these summer days nicely.


As a soft, fresh fragrance it's best to use it in spring and summer. With its light and modern scent, it wouldn't disturb you. I would suggest this to users between 16-22. For anybody older than this group, cool play may appear too common and simple.

Olfactory group: woody floral musk
Scent: above average to good  6,5/10
Silage: average  5/10
Longevity: average  5/10
Quality feel: under average to average  4,5/10
Recommended: Only if you are a fragrance newbie

Jaguar - Jaguar for Men (1988)

"You want some strong spicy aromatic? Here you are.."


The fragrance I'm reviewing is the first fragrance Jaguar had produced. It was launched in 1988. So you may guess it would have some classical characteristics of those times. Just like it's bottle, it has a green aromatic character. Jaguar Original has been discontinued but, still can be found online.

Jaguar for men's blend consists:

top notes: orange, lavender, green notes, mandarin orange, cassia, basil, grapefruit, anise, bergamot, thyme
middle notes: jasmine, nutmeg, carnation, gardenia, cyclamen, cinnamon, caraway, sage, rose, geranium, fir
base notes: leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, oak moss, vanilla, cedar, tobacco, fern


As you can see, it has a full, rich blend. Most of the typical aromatic and fougere notes had been used. Then does this reflect to the actual scent too? Well yea, it has a quite complicated scent. First of all, let me say that the middle notes, or I should say the spices in the blend dominates the general scent. A very offensive and rough blend. Neither citruses, flowers,  musk or moss are able to suppress the super dense scents of the sharp aromatics and spices. Now listen to me, this fragrance is intensely spicy and bitter aromatic. It's green yes, but nothing like a polo or paco rabanne. Its dark, harsh, cloying, bitter, cruel and just waiting to torment your nose if by any chance you overspray. And with it's potentness its very easy to overspray it. This is no joke, still after using hundreds of fragrances this is one of the most strong and harsh fragrances I've ever seen. If you apply just a bit too much, you may need to wash your neck. You want some strong spicy aromatic? Here you are.


Anise, sharp dark green notes, overpowering sage(which I hate) and geranium combines and bring out a really sharp, strong and aggressive scent. Maybe because of this strong main theme I didn't detect softer notes much like gardenia, jasmine, moss, vanilla, cedar, tobacco, sandalwood. Its all about spices and very dark, bitter green aromatics. 


In summary, this is a pure but brutal masculine aromatic. Starting sharp, herbal and spicy, then getting soapy woody. Not a bad fragrance, but its like an untamed tyrannosaurus rex for a pet.

This fragrance would be better in winter. Should be used sparingly and carefully. I would suggest this to people 40 and over. Anybody under that age should definitely try before buying as its kinda outdated, very masculine and very potent.

Olfactory group: aromatic
Scent: under average  4/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: awesome  9/10
Quality feel: above average to good  6,5/10
Recommended: Only if you like super strong masculine fragrances

Hugo Boss - Boss Elements (1993)

"a satisfactory, dark, spicy citrussy fougere.."



Well, most of my Turkish readers know how I feel about most Boss fragrances. I'm not biased on any fragrance brands or something, but if I find more and more low quality fragrances just made for avarice, that makes me mad. So what's my problem with Hugo Boss? Well I'm angry with them because of their low quality modern perfumes. Like other experienced fragrance lovers, I find most modern boss fragrances are quite cheap feeling and synthetic. This happens when you know the brand's good vintage fragrances like spirit, number one, sport, etc. Because of the brand's fame; lots of people gets their new fragrances, and its generally too late, when they discover much better quality fragrances, as the money had already been spent.

Fortunately, the Boss Elements is in better quality than most newer creations from the brand. Its not a high quality one, but not a cheapo either. Boss Elements was launched in 1993 according to basenotes.com

Boss Elements's blend consists:

top notes: aldehydes, artemisia, lavander, basil, bergamot, lemon
middle notes: coriander, violet, clary sage, caraway, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
base notes: leather, sandalwood, amber, musk, oakmoss, cedar


Boss Elements has a well balanced and calm blend. The pointy character of the spices and the acidic scent of the citruses combines and bring out a pleasant and saticfactory scent. In some ways it shares similarities with Calvin Klein Eternity, not scentwise but structurewise. The scent is dark, spicy, lightly bitter orange scent, riched with dry woods. It actually acts quite like a 90's perfume; slightly spicy, semi modern, still a bit manly and average quality. Smells deep, dark and serious.

To me Boss Elements is such a night fragrance. Makes you feel like that. But rather than a fragrance to have a dinner in a good restaurants, its more like a supplements for places like clubs, discos and and bars. This doesn't mean you can't use it on daytime, being a calm and subtle fragrance it would suit most situations well. But would shine at late night attractions better.

In summary; a satisfactory, dark spicy citrussy fougere. Satisfactotyi that's all, not more. You shouldn't hope for a high quality, very well crafted fragrance. If you do, you may be dissappointed. But for a periodic fragrance, to try something new it would work. Not for fragrance gourmes.

Except very hot summer days, it can be used any season, any time in a day. But I would rather suggest using in in colder days like autumn and winter. Because of its spice content has some warmness. I would suggest this to people between 16-30.
 
Olfactory group: aromatic fougere
Scent: above average  6/10
Silage: above average  6/10
Longevity: under average  4,5/10
Quality feel: average  5/10
Recommended: Give it a try for a change

Aramis - Tuscany (1984)

"I don't know any men won't like Tuscany's scent.."


My first review will be on Tuscany from Aramis, which has an important place in the world of fragrance world. Tuscany was launced in 1984 and one of Aramis's big guns. Its a typical 80's masculine type fragrance. In style its quite similar to fragrances like Polo Crest, Dior Eau Sauvage, Lancome Trophee. So its one of those fougeres smelling leather, fern, moss, woody notes with the opening of fresh citruses.


Tuscany's blend consists:

top notes: lime, lavander, bergamot, lemon
middle notes: caraway, orange blossom, tarragon, anise
base notes: leather, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, cinnamon, basil, oakmoss


 
When we look at the blend we can see its using a very standart and proven 80's formulation. First opening with sharp citruses, then some spices and finally soft but strong basenotes balancing the whole blend with their heavy scents.

The notes are natural well enough, the blend smells natural with no syntheticness and no disturbing prominent notes. Meanwhile; the one I'm reviewing is the older one, I'm not sure if there is a difference between the older ones and the newer ones with new bottles.






Modern renovated version

It's so succesful, I don't know any men won't like Tuscany's scent. Despite being an 80's style oldschool fragrance it's not heavy, harsh or cloying. Its fresh for its type and smeels natural. The blend is well crafted and quite harmonic. So harmonic that the whole fragrance smells like as it consists only but one singular note. This sometimes can make the user think as it was a monotonous or boring scent, but not too seriously. Except that, it's scent, naturalness, quality feel are very good.


In summary; for me Tuscany is one the well crafted fresher fougeres, it has 80's soul, with perfect usability for our times, smells good, not aggressive or offensive. Just a wonderful classical light masculine.

Except hot summer days, it can be used any season, any time in a day. I would suggest it for people 25 or older. Its not heavy, but anybody younger 25 with modern tastes may find its a little bit  outdated. If you like manly, masculine classical 80's fragrances I strongly suggest it.


Olfactory group: aromatic fougere
Scent: awesome  9/10
Silage: good  7/10
Longevity: average  5/10
Quality feel: good  7/10
Recommended: Strongly